Peggy's pretty pink parlours

As a child growing up in a German village, Peggy Porschen dreamed of owning a cake shop. Today she runs the finest pastry parlours in London.

In Chelsea and Belgravia, Peggy Porschen’s parlours have become a landmark for residents and tourists alike. Both shops occupy prominent corner sites and are painted the same bubble gum pink. The trademark flower arch around each entrance raises a smile on even the darkest day and, once through the door, the mouth-watering cakes and pastries are irresistible.

Peggy’s journey to proprietor of what is known as ‘the prettiest bakery in the world’ began in her native Germany where the tradition of ‘kaffeeklatsch’ – which means coffee and gossip – is as ingrained as the English afternoon tea.

Peggy explains, “My inspiration was the cosy feeling of friends and family gathering around cakes to chat. I made my first cake when I was 14. I had a grandma who loved baking and my mother would bake Christmas cookies with me. We lived near Cologne, close to the Belgian and Dutch border, and I grew up eating waffles.”

FLYING HIGH

Peggy went on to become a flight attendant but her love of sweet treats prevailed and, in her early twenties, she took steps to turn her passion into a career. “I worked for Lufthansa and, on my travels, I discovered that cakes and sugar craft was a big thing in London. I decided to do a one-year course at Le Cordon Bleu cookery school in London.” Once trained, Peggy joined a catering company and life took a fortuitous turn. “I was a pastry chef and Bryn, who became my husband, was a savoury chef. It was love at first sight!”

Soon after, the company was catering Elton John’s famous White Tie and Tiara Ball when Bryn put Peggy forward for what was to become her breakthrough commission. She explains. “The ball is always a flamboyant event and their symbol that year was a pink Fabergé egg. Our boss came down to the kitchen and asked, ‘Do you think we can create edible Fabergé eggs?’ Bryn said, ‘Peggy can.’ I immediately felt anxious!”

But Peggy’s eggs were a success and, having Elton John as a satisfied customer, led to her establishing a bespoke cake business in 2003. Bryn helped with deliveries and accounts, and customers included Gwyneth Paltrow, Madonna, Sting and Stella McCartney. Then the global financial crisis hit.

“In 2008 we lost our core customer base. We were at a turning point and ready to think of something different for the brand. We were always fans of Belgravia and I saw the perfect spot for a shop on the corner of Ebury and Elizabeth Street: my heart started beating faster and I knew we had to go for it.” Peggy’s leap of faith paid off. She made spectacular cakes and the customers came and, not only ate, but posted photos on Instagram.

“In the early years, I underestimated the impact of Instagram,” says Peggy. The parlour was on the cover of a United Airlines inflight magazine and people came flocking. We upped our game and now have a creative team and seasonal themes.”

FLOWER POWER

Stunning floral displays that change with the seasons are key to the business. “My mother and grandmother were florists, so I love flowers. I asked Mathew Dickinson of Dickinson & Doris to design something to mark Chelsea Flower Show one year. He did a floral arch around the parlour door and it had an instant impact. Mathew uses silk flowers. I would love to use real but budget- and maintenance wise it would be too difficult, but he recycles up to 80 per cent of the installations.”

The flowers give the parlours a romantic, fairy tale feel and it is no surprise that Peggy Porschen is popular with Disney fans. “We’ve become a destination for cake tourism,” she says. “We attract a feminine crowd – mums with children, groups of young women and older ladies. People love a special treat to celebrate a birthday, an anniversary. We even have proposals; we do a surprise cake with ’Will you marry me?’ piped on top.”

Fresh cakes and pastries are made daily in their bakery which is situated in Battersea, where Peggy and Bryn also live with their son Max. “When we first started, we had our bakery in the Belgravia basement and then, when we opened our Chelsea parlour in 2019, we got an external kitchen. We deliver to the parlours at 8am and have savoury kitchens in the basement of each shop where we make breakfasts and lunches.”

IT'S A MATCH

Peggy’s most popular cakes are red velvet and chocolate heaven cupcakes and her collaboration with the jewellery designer Olivia Burton is proving to be a sell-out. “It’s a match made in heaven: Olivia Burton has a floral colour scheme similar to ours and we have a similar audience. Together we have created an afternoon tea experience with cakes, edible petals and jammie dodger cupcakes.”

This year saw publication of Peggy’s tenth book, A Year in Cake, which is translated into German and also sells in the States. What started as a small family business has become a global brand and Peggy couldn’t be happier. “When I was growing up, the thought of having to sit in an office horrified me. I always wanted to create with my hands and build something. I think of my business as a child that I am nurturing and raising, and work is something that I love doing every day.”   And, as proprietor of the prettiest bakery in the world, who can blame her? Peggy's London What is your favourite London memory? My favourite memories are from when I met my husband Bryn. He was working for The Savoy Hotel and, on date nights, we loved strolling through Covent Garden and going to restaurants and bars. Where do you go to unwind? I love massages and haven’t had one for a long time. I hear the spa at The Lanesborough Hotel is amazing and I’m going to book soon. What or who have you got on speed dial? All my creatives, my dream team whom I bounce ideas off constantly! My hairdresser Sharon from The Chelsea Chair – I have been with her for years. What do you miss most about London when you are away? The buzz and the open-mindedness. London is a multicultural place where you can be anyone you want. London is like nowhere else in the world. London’s best kept secret is… I love Kyoto Garden in Holland Park. The water features are calming and therapeutic; it's a great place to let the mind flow and take a break from the hustle and bustle of London life. Who are the up-and-coming foodies to watch in the capital? I love Kyoto Garden in Holland Park. The water features are calming and therapeutic; it's a great place to let the mind flow and take a break from the hustle and bustle of London life.