The daughter, granddaughter and great-granddaughter of world-class chefs, Hélène Darroze was always destined to run a restaurant. For generations her family had an establishment in South West France, Hélène explains, “I was born in the kitchen and grew up in the kitchen.”
Now, 54, Hélène is chef patron of her eponymous restaurant at The Connaught Hotel in Mayfair, which, as of January this year, boasts three Michelin stars. She also has a two Michelin-starred establishment in Paris called Marsan. Part of her award-winning formula is her commitment to the finest ingredients, something she learned from her grandfather when she was a child.
GENERATION GAME
“In the seventies, the producers used to come to the restaurant and I would see my grandfather choose fish, meat, ceps, eggs and vegetables. I would go to the market with him to choose foie gras and poultry. My quest for the best products came from this education, for sure.”
Hélène began her culinary career in Monaco at the famous Le Louis XV restaurant, where she trained under the chef Alain Ducasse. She then returned to work for her family’s restaurant before opening her own establishment in Paris in 1999. She took the reins at The Connaught in 2008, winning her first Michelin star there the following year.
RECIPE FOR LIFE
Although based in Paris, Hélène is constantly in London and clearly relishes cooking for her diners at The Connaught. “They are very epicurean people: they don’t just come to my restaurant to eat, they come to have an experience. We have British guests and, because London is the centre of the world, international people too. The French community in London enjoy my restaurant and we also have French tourists, which is surprising because, when visiting a city for the weekend, you usually want to enjoy local gastronomy.”
No doubt Hélène’s French fans are coming for her signature dishes. She says, “There are a few dishes that people love that we bring back to the menu very regularly; the roasted scallop with mousseline of carrot and citrus, the Wellington – a homage to British cuisine, and the baba with Armagnac.”
FEAST FOR THE SENSES
The HD restaurant at The Connaught is not only renowned for its cuisine but also the stunning décor by French designer Pierre Yovanovitch, who redesigned the space in 2019 to mark Hélène’s tenth anniversary at the hotel. The dark wood was stripped back to a lighter hue and salmon pink paint introduced on the ceiling, window frames and cornicing.
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“I wanted something feminine, calm and cosy,” explains Hélène, adding “I respected The Connaught’s identity – the wood panelling and the history of the building – but I wanted guests to see that they were in the restaurant of a woman.I wanted to forget tablecloths, and for people to feel as though they were entering my home.” |
I LOVE THE ENERGY AND SPIRIT OF LONDON
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Paris is now home for Hélène, but she used to live on Mount Street, just round the corner from the hotel. “It was just a dream: my daughters, Charlotte and Quiterie, used to go to school in Mount Street Gardens, five minutes from The Connaught and five minutes from home,” she says, adding, “I love the energy and spirit of London. I see that my London team is very creative, a bit eccentric and the French team is more conservative. London is very cosmopolitan, you can find the best Japanese, the best Vietnamese, the best Chinese food. It’s incredible. We don’t have that in Paris. |
FAMILY FIRST
Hélène is a single parent who adopted her daughters in Vietnam when they were three and four months old. “When they were babies, I had two nannies – one in Paris and one in London – and I used to thank them every day!”
When in Paris, on a typical day, Hélène will spend time with her daughters before school and then head to Marsan.“The first thing I do is go in the kitchen and say hello, and then I spend all morning in the office. I deal with suppliers, budgets and projects such as my new book which is almost finished. When I am in London, I work with Marco, my right-hand man. However, as soon as it is lunch or dinner service, I want to be in the kitchen with my team.”
DISH OF THE DAY
Hélène’s favourite part of the job is formulating new recipes. “I love the moment we create, when I share with the team what I want and we do the testing, and then the final touches. I also love the moments that I share with the guests. I don’t go into the dining room very often, but they can come in the kitchen and now, at The Connaught, we have this amazing chef’s table in front of the kitchen, so we have more opportunity to explain our food philosophy.”
And finally, if Hélène could choose her last meal on earth, what would it be? She does not hesitate: “Roast chicken with roasted potatoes or French fries and a tomato salad with Dom Perignon Champagne, and desserts that my mum cooks – crêpes, crème caramel and apple charlotte cake.”
That’s three puddings! And why not? After all, this is a woman who juggles single parenthood with the running of award-winning restaurants in different countries. Hélène really can do it all.
Hélène's London
What is your favourite London memory?
The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012 when I really felt the unity and pride of the nation. My dream would be to cook for the Queen, I have respect and admiration for her. I have been introduced to Prince Charles, he came to a cocktail party at The Connaught and, I assume, ate a little of my food!
Where do you like to eat in the capital?
My daughters love Asian food so we go to Japanese restaurants such as Umu. They also love pasta, and our favourite Italian is Angela Hartnett’s Café Murano.
Where do you go to unwind?
Hyde Park, it’s close to The Connaught. I like the Aman Spa at The Connaught and having tea at Claridge’s. I love to go to Borough Market and hunting for antiques around the Fulham Road and Columbia Road.
What or who have you got on speed dial?
The Connaught spa, the hairdresser – I go to Nicky Clarke just in front of the hotel; and, for a manicure, Spa Illuminata in South Audley Street.
London’s best kept secret is…
The beautiful church in Mount Street Gardens. I love this place: when I am in London, I go nearly every day. If I have five minutes, I go to pray and just be quiet.
