When Santiago Lastra was growing up in the Mexican city of Cuernavaca, he never dreamed that he would one day be running a top restaurant in London.
As a teenager he was more focussed on maths, and cooking was not on his radar. Until, that is, he picked up a box of crackers with a recipe for crab dip on the back.
“I decided to buy the ingredients, and cook it, and people liked it. That feeling of making something for others and giving them a good experience really touched me. Soon after, I started working in an Italian restaurant to see if I liked cooking as a profession.”
Comfort food
Six months later, when Santiago was just 15, the family was rocked by tragedy when his father, grandfather and grandmother passed away in quick succession. “It was a very dark time for us,” he says, “I stopped going to school, but I still went to the restaurant. I remember bringing food to my brother and my mother, and it brought them comfort. I realised that I could make them happy in a moment that was so sad, and I wanted to do that for everyone, for the rest of my life. From that moment I knew, I wanted to be one of the best.”
To achieve his goal, Santiago studied at the Arte Culinario Coronado in Mexico, completed a Master’s Degree in Culinary Innovation at the Basque Culinary Centre in Spain and took a development course at the Nordic Food Lab at the University of Copenhagen in Denmark. He has worked in an impressive 27 countries and pays tribute to Andoni Aduriz at Mugaritz and Rene Redzepi at Noma as the two chefs who influenced him most.
It was while he was collaborating with Rene for a seven week Noma residency in Mexico that his fascination with regional cooking began. “I travelled around the country and saw how people used to cook and live thousands of years ago. It’s inspiring how the indigenous people keep our traditions alive.”
Dish of the day
When Santiago opened KOL in 2020, he aimed to give diners a new experience. He explains, “KOL is a reference to the Spanish word ‘col’ which means cabbage. I want to represent that undervalued things can be exceptional if you put them in the right context. I wanted to produce Mexican food with British ingredients in a beautiful restaurant in central London.”
It proved to be a winning formula: in 2021 Santiago was voted Best Chef at the GQ Food and Drink Awards and, a year later, KOL received a Michelin star. Santiago is keen to highlight that others play an important role in all his accomplishments.
“Without my team, it would be difficult for my ideas to become reality,” he says, adding, “I am proud that KOL is included in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list because that’s recognition for doing something unique. Last year we were number ten at the National Restaurant Awards, a statement of the support that we have in the UK.”
The success of KOL has been testament to the team's hard work, so it is no surprise that Santiago appears to spend every waking hour in his restaurant.
“In the morning I work in our test kitchen with Dan, Head of Research and Development. Afterwards, I am in the lunch service, we have a team meal and then I spend time with the Head Chef, Ray. We find ways to implement new dishes and experiment with a variety of flavours.”
Cream of the crop
Santiago’s British producers are key, and he loves the bounty that summer brings. “It’s an incredible time of year: summer is a gift from the gods. We have different types of tomatoes from the Isle of Wight, wonderful lobsters from Cornwall, juicy black cherries from a farm in Oxfordshire, and slightly salty blackberries that grow on a beach at Folkestone.”
His recipe of the moment, currently on the summer menu, is inspired by a Mexican bean soup with plantain but uses all British ingredients. “We use fresh peas from southwest England. Underneath is a water mint custard made with pea pods in a broth made from blossoms and chilis. We sprinkle wild garlic flowers and serve it with cleavers, a sticky weed, which gives an interesting cucumber-like aroma and flavour.”
Santiago attributes the popularity of KOL to the décor as well as the menu. “The idea was to design a place like someone’s house in Mexico but with clean Nordic lines. The kitchen, the beating heart of the restaurant, is in the centre so guests feel the passion of the chefs while they are cooking. It’s like when you go to the theatre and the actors come on stage. Downstairs is the Mezcaleria bar, a speakeasy where we do snacks and cocktails made with Mexican spirits – mezcal, tequila, Mexican rum, whisky and gin.”
Future fare
With such a heavy workload, Santiago is lucky to have his brother Eduardo on hand to project manage his newest venture, Fonda, which will be opening in Mayfair. The details are hush-hush but Santiago gives some tantalising teasers.
“A ‘fonda’ is a Mexican eatery. Normally it’s a family business that people run from their homes; they open the doors of their house, put out a few tables and serve homemade meals. Fonda will feature food from around Mexico with my own interpretation and will open later this year on Heddon Street.”
Given that there is often a wait of several months for a table at KOL, a new Lastra restaurant is a welcome prospect, as Santiago continues on his journey of sharing his take of Mexican cuisine with the capital.
Santiago's London
Where do you like to eat in the capital?
I enjoy British restaurants such as St. JOHN or Lyle’s.Noble Rot in Mayfair is also a favourite.
Where do you go to unwind?
I love Hyde Park: I used to live close by. I'm a Soho House member so I go there to relax, to read and when I want to have a quiet office day. In summer, I like walking along the river in Richmond.
What is your favourite London memory?
Christmas. It's always magical. The lights, the Christmas trees, ice-skating at Somerset House, tea at Claridge’s. I live in Notting Hill with Eduardo, and last year our mum came from Mexico and I cooked Christmas dinner. We did all the classic festive things.
What or who have you got on speed dial?
My girlfriend, my brother and my mum.
Who is on your radar?
A restaurant in Notting Hill called Dorian. The chef is Max Coen and they just got a Michelin star and it looks like they are absolutely flying. I am looking forward to seeing what they do, plus it’s only two minutes from my house.
What do you miss most about London when you are away?
The impressive transport network. After living in London for so long you get used to traveling around the city with ease. I know when I fly back from Mexico and land at Heathrow, it's 15 minutes to Paddington and then I'm almost home and can relax!
